Learn Fly Tying » instructions

The Jersey Herd

Dave Cammiss — Sat, 16 May 2009 12:07:02 +0000

The Jersey Herd was created by Tom Ivens for reservoir fishing in the early 1970s . It derived it’s name because the early pattern’s body was made from the gold colour foil on the milk bottles known as gold tops. At that time the Jersey cows were the ones milked to give the best full cream milk, hence the name Jersey Herd.

It is still a useful pattern to have in your box. Materials have changed over the years and the body is now usually made of copper lurex ribbed with copper wire, or goldfingering. I have used a material called new body czech which I prefer. This fly like so many others from that era still catches a lot of fish and is well worth giving a try.

The Dressing

Hook - L/S 6, 8 or 10
Thread - Black
Tail Back & Head - Peacock Herl
Body - Either Copper Lurex ribbed with copper wire, Goldfingering or New Body Czech.

Dave C and The Team

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sg1L38TH5Wc

The Yellow Dancer

Dave Cammiss — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 14:53:33 +0000

The Yellow Dancer is a relative newcomer on the fly fishing scene. It is a ‘sport’ of the original Woolley Bugger devised by our friends north of the border. It has proved to be a ‘must have’ fly on most Scottish still water trout fisheries. As is always the case it has spawned the usual derivatives, Black Dancer , Orange Dancer, and I expect in the fullness of time we will have the Highland Dancer. I had to resort to my favourite fishing magazine , Fly Fishing and Fly Tying to get the dressing. It is a straight forward tie if you do the proper preparation.

The Dressing

Hook -- Kamasan 175 or similar , sizes 8 / 10.
Tail -- White marabou with a few strands of pearlescent micro flash.
Body -- Rainbow flashabou or similar.
Rib -- Fine gold oval.
Hackle -- Long yellow cock palmered.
Head -- Gold bead to suit hook size.

Dave C. and the Team

www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzFN7APj62s

The Dark Stone Fly

Dave Cammiss — Thu, 19 Feb 2009 20:23:07 +0000

This is a pattern more popular in the USA , and New Zealand , than here in the UK. It is a large fly that makes only a brief appearance as an adult fly. In it’s nymphal stage it is a generous morsel for a trout.

I would suggest a long shank 8 hook for both the nymph and the adult fly. The pattern I have tied is from a book by an American author , Edson Leonard , dated in the 1950s. A large pheasant tail nymph with a leaded underbody would be adequate for the nymphal stage.

The Dressing

Hook -- Long Shank 8 ( light wire )
Tail -- Bronze Mallard ( a generous bunch ) optional
Rib -- Fine Mono
Body -- A mix of brown and grey Seals Fur. Dub 3/4 of the hook length. After tying in build up a base for the wing. The wing has to lie flat along the top of the body. If the wing ‘ cocks up ‘ carefully unwind and apply more even turns to the base and try again.
Hackle - 2 Cree Cock Hackles ( brown as an alternative ). Wind the 2nd hackle through the 1st. Make a nice neat head and tie off ( as an option you can trim the underbody hackle fibres ).
Wing -- Brown Turkey quill , doubled and tied flat .
Antennae -- ( optional ) bronze mallard fibres.

This is an easy pattern to tie and it just might be useful to have a couple tied in case you are there on the right day.

Happy Fishing

Dave Cammiss and the Team

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Za7kJZVrfVY

Palmered Hackle Alternatives

Dave Cammiss — Sun, 18 Jan 2009 23:34:05 +0000

Palmered hackle flies have been popular from the early days of flytying and were a feature of many of the early salmon flies.

They still are popular with many of the traditional flies and are increasingly used on modern lures to impart movement on a fast retrieve, ie. Woolley buggers, Damsel nymphs and Yellow dancers.

There are two ways of tying in and securing the hackles on palmered flies. Both are equally effective and it comes down to personal choice.

Method 1 -- The Ribbing material is tied in at the tail end. The hackle is tied in by the but end at the head of the fly and wound down to the tail in open turns. The ribbing material is then wound from the tail to the head in open anticlockwise turns, securing the hackle, and tied off at the head. I personally feel that this is the more secure way.

Method 2 -- The hackle is tied in by the tip at the tail of the fly. The hackle is then wound in open turns to the head and tied off. The only benefit of this method is it saves weight on a dry fly.

Dave C. and the Team

www.youtube.com/watch?v=aM8jK9lQE24

The Sedge Fly

Dave Cammiss — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 21:09:40 +0000

This pattern sits better in the water and either static or moving it does behave like a sedge. I even found that when it was gunged up with slime and sunk it still caught fish. I suggest you tie some up in 10s and 12s and and keep them ready in your fly box. I only wish I had some of these when I went to New Zealand earlier this year.

The deer hair patterns are more complicated to tie and create a mess when you trim them up and I feel are less effective.

The Dressing

Hook Lt. wt. L/S 8,10,12,14. (kamasan 830.)
Thread Brown.
Hackle Blue Dun/ Red Game. Trim off the all the hackle fibres projecting downwards.
Body Cream dubbing ( possum under fur) tied meaty.
Thorax Cream Antron(optional).
Wing Cream antron ( I use Partons dapping floss.)
Flotant Mucilin or similar

Dave C. and the Team

www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQpEjMTo1SE

The Double Half Hitch

Dave Cammiss — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 22:08:06 +0000

Those of you who have watched my flytying lessons will know that I favour the double half hitch for finishing off my flies rather than the whip finish. Do not be deterred from learning the whip finish either manually or by one of the various tools available.

I learnt my fly tying over sixty years ago when the whip finish or double half hitch was rarely used. In the early days when eyed hooks became popular many of the commercial flies were finished off with a single half hitch with well waxed thread…..no varnish! This practice was resurrected when it was decided to train young women in Africa and Asia to tie the flies. At that time I was tying for several local tackle shops and was told that I had to abandon my practice of finishing every fly with two double half hitches and varnishing the heads. This was by one of the men who had gone abroad to set up these factories and instruct the local tyers. Not only did I have to tie an inferior fly my price was halved, but not the cost of the materials or hooks. Needless to say I gave up tying for the retail market. But I digress.

The double half hitch is relatively easy if you follow the instruction clip. If you have trouble pulling the thread through the first loop, with your finger, try using a bodkin or the end of a short knitting needle, even a pencil. Always tighten the thread slowly and direct it to where you want it to lie .Cut the thread do not break it off.

Remember practice makes perfect. Just keep tying the knot on a bare hook until it is second nature to you.

Happy Fishing

Dave Cammiss and the Team

www.youtube.com/watch?v=qziAKQ3ZIgI

The Baby Doll

Dave Cammiss — Sun, 21 Sep 2008 18:41:40 +0000

This fly originated in the very early 1970s and was attributed to a Brian Kench. It differs from earlier more traditional patterns in as much that there were no moving parts. Despite this it quickly found favour with the fly fishers of the day on the reservoirs and still waters, thanks mainly to the publicity given to it by Bob Church.

At that time I was tying flies for three of the local tackle shops and I was inundated with orders for the original baby doll and the several variants it had ‘spawned’. Fortunately Jean, my lovely wife, took it upon herself to deal with all the ‘baby doll orders’ and left me free to carry on tying proper flies.

It was only after a good day at Eyebrook reservoir that I appreciated how good a fly it was. Despite its success over the years it has fallen out of favour and given way to more exotic creations when more man made materials became available to fly tyers.

I would suggest that before you tie this fly you make sure your hands are clean. The baby wool is fluoescent and loses its appeal if it is grubby. I would also suggest that you scrap the fly after a days fishing, after all it is cheap as chips to make.

If you want to give your ‘doll’ a ghostly look gently stroke the wool body with an emery board to raise the fibres, but make sure that the head is well varnished and dry first.

Materials

Hook -- Long shank or Streamer hook ’8′ and ’10′.
Thread -- Black or Red.
Body/Tail -- White ‘Baby Wool’.
Rib -- Silver wire (strong).

Good Luck and Happy Fishing.
Dave Cammiss and the Team

www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHQytZ6RDKk

The Shipmans Buzzer

Dave Cammiss — Fri, 22 Aug 2008 21:37:51 +0000

This fly pattern was originated by Dave Shipman over 20 years ago. The original pattern was tied using white antron to make the fly float on an even keel in the surface film, imitating the midge emerging from its nymphal shuck. In recent years, CDC., because of its excellent floating properties, has become more popular. The antron is the cheaper option without sacrificing floatability but foam is also an alternative for larger flies.

The body is best tied with seals fur in claret, red, orange, olive or ginger. Do not be afraid to try different colours. The rib is pearl tinsel tied in fine or medium widths.

Once the fly has been finished and the varnish on the head is dry gently stroke the seals fur with Velcro stick or pick out fibres with a dubbing needle.

The fly can be fished on a floating line, individually or in a team of three when the trout are feeding on flies emerging from the surface. I have found that a static fly is often better during the day but a slow retrieve gets more reaction as the night closes in.

Hook - Light weight. long shank sizes 10, 12, and 14.
Tying Thread - Brown or claret.
Body - Seals fur. Red, claret, olive, and ginger.
Rib - Pearl/ Holographic tinsel, medium or fine.
Tail / Wing - White Antron, CDC., Foam or Dapping Floss.

Happy Fishing
Dave Cammiss and the Team

www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqmDzGBIz1c

The Egg Fly

Dave Cammiss — Wed, 02 Jul 2008 17:36:56 +0000

Strictly speaking this is not a fly, something it has in common with many of the creations invented in recent years. However it does have its place in the fly box.

The origins of this fly can be attributed to our American cousins. It was designed to imitate the salmon eggs which get dislodged from the redds when the salmon are spawning, and which are greedily devoured by waiting trout.

This is all a long way from our stocked stillwaters in the UK where it can be effective on its day for browns and rainbows. I have used them occasionally with some success on rivers.

The Materials required could not be simpler.

Hook -- fine wire, wide gape, fly hook sizes 10/12 (kamasan 160)

Tying thread -- red, fluorescent red or orange.

Egg fly yarn, fluorescent orange,pink,red, or yellow

( I have found the most popular to be a mix of orange and pink ).

Once you have followed the simple steps to create a ‘fluffy ball’ you can trim to the size and shape to suit yourself.

Best fished with an intermediate flyline.
David Cammiss

www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Zie03a1sWE

Daddy Longlegs (Crane Fly)

Dave Cammiss — Tue, 27 May 2008 20:39:43 +0000

The crane fly is a land based insect which features in the fly fisher’s armoury because it is an ungainly flier and regularly finds it’s way on to lakes and rivers by accident. They usually appear about August time and can be quite an abundant food source for the trout either on the surface or as they get caught up in the surface film and drown.

Their long legs make them very distinctive and all the imitative patterns are based on this feature. They can be tied with a detached body on short shank hooks or wool body tied on a long shank hook, there are even gold bead versions.

The most common and certainly an effective pattern is tied with hackle point wings and knotted cock pheasant tail fibres for the legs on a long shank size 10 hook. The most trying part of this fly is tying the knots in the pheasant tail fibres. Try to acquire the centre tail feathers from a mature cock bird. These fibres will be longer and stronger. I also tie two together at the same time, it saves time and the trout do not seem to notice.

A variant of the daddy long legs is the hopper. For this pattern don’t give it wings and tie a seals fur dubbed body with lurex ribbing.

Hook -- Long shank size 10
Tying thread -- Brown
Body -- Brown wool or floss
Rib ( optional ) -- Fine copper wire
Wing -- 2 brown grizzle hackles over back
Legs -- 2 pairs of knotted cock pheasant tail fibres each side of the body
Hackle -- Brown cock hackle

For the Hopper

Body -- Seals fur ( any colour )
Rib -- Lurex silver or gold
Hackle -- Colour to match

Happy Fishing from Dave C and the Team